DESIGNER 101

Jewelry 101:

Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Collection

By The Rebag Team, Apr. 07, 2023

Jewelry 101: Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Collection

First introduced in 2008, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée collection stands as one of the label’s most sought-after jewelry lines. Its sophisticated style, largely due to the delicate golden beads and clean lines present in the lustrous jewelry pieces that belong to it, is admired by celebrities like Taylor Swift, Reese Witherspoon, and Emma Stone, who have all been sighted wearing their favorite Perlée pieces. If you want to learn more about the iconic collection, read on — we tell you everything you need to know, from materials to models and sizing and the history behind it.

The Perlée Look

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée collection simultaneously exudes refinement and evokes a sense of joie de vivre. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, each Perlée piece showcases the Parisian house’s expertise and excellent craftsmanship through delicate and seamless finishes. Sometimes colorful, but always sophisticated, Perlée pieces are characterized by polished, clean lines and modern silhouettes, with three defining features: golden beads, diamond clove motifs, and the occasional calligraphed Van Cleef & Arpels signature. Whether you’re seeking a statement piece or an understated accent, Perlée has something for you.

The Finest Materials

All pieces in the Perlée collection are crafted from the finest materials. The predominant material is, of course, 18-karat gold, in yellow, white, and rose gold variations. The collection also features diamonds, mother of pearl (a material produced by mollusks, recognizable by its distinctive iridescent sheen), rich black onyx, bright green malachite, blue-green turquoise, reddish coral, and more exquisite materials like rubies, quartz, emeralds, and sapphires, among others. The variety of gold and gemstones used give the collection its joyful identity and are all carefully selected to meet Van Cleef & Arpels’ exacting quality standards.

Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Models

The Perlée collection features a range of jewelry pieces including rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and watches, with new models introduced periodically. Here’s a closer look at the models in each category:

Rings:the collection includes a range of ring designs, from delicate bands to more elaborate styles. One of the most popular designs is the Pearls of Gold ring, a delicate golden bead band available in sizes small and medium. For an extra luxe feeling, upgrade to a Diamonds ring, consisting of one, three, or five rows of stacked beads, with sizes ranging from 42mm to 62mm; for a pop of color, opt for a Couleurs ring, three rows of golden bead bands with an eye-catching gemstone. Next is the Signature ring, a beaded border band available in widths ranging from 45mm to 69mm. Lastly, there is the Clovers ring, adorned with clover-shaped motifs and available in two sizes: small, ranging from 46mm to 51mm, and medium, from 52mm to 62mm. All are available in yellow, rose, and white gold, with diamond-set iterations.

Bracelets: the Pearls of Gold bracelet, the slimmest in the collection, consists of a single row of gold beads and is available in sizes ranging from XS to L. With the same size range, the Diamonds bracelet has one or three rows of small diamonds located in the center of the beads. The Signature bracelet features engraved arabesques of the Van Cleef & Arpels signature. Then there are the Clovers and Sweet Clover bracelets, enhanced by beautiful clover motifs, the brand’s symbol of luck, with the first having a more elaborate design, and the second being more understated. These last three follow the XS-L sizing structure and have a blade clasp closure. Lastly, the Couleurs bracelet features impactful colorful gemstones set into the beaded cuff-like design and is available in sizes S, M, and L, for a wrist size that can go from 5.9 inches to 6.7 inches. All bracelet models are available in white, yellow, and rose gold, with diamond-set iterations.

Necklaces: the Perlée collection primarily features two necklace styles: delicate pendants, and more elaborate long necklaces. Pendants in the line include the Couleurs and Diamonds, which feature either one large ornamental stone (for the first), or a rounded, diamond-studded creation (for the second) that dangles from a 16.5 inches chain. Of the same chain length, the Clovers pendant features a golden-beaded, barrel-shaped clover ornament. The Couleurs transformable long necklace is decorated with three rings of delicate beads hanging from a wider beaded pendant — typically crafted in yellow gold or with one of the three beaded rings crafted in gemstones, either coral, onyx, or turquoise. It has a chain length of about 35.4 inches.

Earrings: two primary earring categories in the collection, dome-like studs, and hoops. The first category includes Perlée Diamonds and Perlée Couleurs earrings. The Diamonds style features a dome-like circle studded with 38 diamonds. Perlée Couleurs earrings, on the other hand, also feature a dome-like circle shape but are instead adorned with malachite, carnelian, or turquoise. Hoops in the collection include the Perlée Clovers and the Perlée Pearls of Gold styles. The former are adorned with the house’s beloved clover motif, made special by 40 small embedded diamond stones; these hoops also come with a detachable stem and clip-back clasp. The Pearls of Gold style is available in two sizes, small and large, both of which consist of a single row of shiny beads. All earrings come in yellow, white, and rose gold iterations.

Watches: timepieces in the Perlée collection fall into two categories, wristwatches and “secret” watches. The traditional Perlée watch can have either a 23mm or 30mm case and features a gold bezel, a guilloché dial, and Swiss quartz movement. All models are sold with two interchangeable straps and a pin buckle, with straps in materials like alligator skin, gold, grosgrain, and more. Perlée Secret Pendant watches feature a 25mm case surrounded by diamonds, a gold bezel, a white mother-of-pearl dial, a gold chain, and Swiss quartz movement. Secret Pendant watches have a distinctive cover (hence the “secret” label, as it hides the watch’s face) that features one of the label’s ornamental stones, with options like chalcedony, ruby, sodalite, and quartz, among others.

How to Style Your Perlèe Pieces

Joyfully feminine, Perlée models can be styled in an array of ways. Since they have such a delicate design, they are perfect for layering or stacking, either with other pieces belonging to their collection or other Van Cleef & Arpels styles, with multiple bracelets or rings that can be layered together to create a unique look. The beading adds texture and dimension to any attire and pairs well with other jewelry. For a more subtle look, they can also be worn on their own. Perlée pieces are versatile and can be dressed up or down according to the occasion.

History Behind the Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Collection

One of the most sought-after Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry collections, Perlée was first introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in 2008, but its history and inspiration go back much further.

The Perlée technique, which involves adding tiny beads to metal surfaces, had been used in French haute couture for centuries when the brand drew inspiration from it and created a collection of jewelry that would showcase the beauty of these delicate beads. The labor-intensive, high-skilled technique involves using a small drill to make evenly spaced holes which are then filled with tiny beads or pearls. These are then carefully secured using a special bead setting or graver tool. The aforementioned beads or pearls are often made of precious metals, like gold or platinum, or precious stones like diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds; they usually measure just a few millimeters. The result is an intricate design that adds a stunning visual effect to the surface of a piece of jewelry.

The collection was named Perlée, French for “beaded”. At the time of its release, it featured a range of rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. These pieces featured delicate beading in gold, rose gold, and white gold, and were often embellished with diamonds or stunning colorful gemstones. It didn’t take long for the Perlée to become a favorite among jewelry collectors. This was, with its timeless elegance and sophistication, to be expected: the world of jewelry recognized and admired the precision and skill needed to implement the beading technique, which made every Perlée piece a work of art in its own right.

In 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Perlée Couleurs collection, which added a pop of color to the classic Perlée design. The Couleurs collection featured a range of stunning gemstones including turquoise, carnelian, and onyx, and was designed to be mixed and matched or stacked with the original, classic Perlée pieces.

Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has continued to expand the Perlée collection, introducing new models and variations on the classic design, but always remaining true to their origins. The brand has also offered customization options for some of the pieces, allowing customers to choose their preferred metal and gemstones, with all sorts of combinations available. Today, the Perlée collection remains one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature jewelry collections.

The Perlée Look

A testament to the allure of Van Cleef & Arpels, this collection exudes a sense of refinement that’s paired with a playful joie de vivre. Colorful, its signature beaded design speaks of a wearer that is not willing to leave fun behind, but that remains sophisticated at all times. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, each Perlée piece showcases the Parisian house’s expertise and excellent craftsmanship through its delicate and seamless finish. The design identity behind the Perlée collection is one of versatility and effortless grace. From the subtle sparkle of the Perlée clovers to the refined simplicity of the Perlée bands, every piece in the collection is a celebration of beauty. Whether you’re seeking a statement piece or an understated accent, Perlée has something for you.

The Finest Materials

One of the most notorious features of the Perlée collection is the variety of materials that the pieces are crafted from, with all sorts of precious metals and gemstones (and combinations of the two) present. One of the predominant materials is, of course, 18-karat gold, which is present in yellow, white, and rose gold variations. The collection also features diamonds, mother of pearl (a material produced by mollusks, recognizable by its distinctive iridescent sheen), rich black onyx, bright green malachite, blue-green turquoise, reddish coral, and more exquisite materials like rubies, quartz, emeralds, and sapphires, among others. These give the collection its joyful identity and are all carefully selected to meet Van Cleef & Arpels’ exacting quality standards. The brand offers customization options for some of the Perlée pieces, allowing customers to choose their preferred metal and gemstones.

Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Models

The Perlée collection features a range of jewelry pieces, including rings, bracelets, necklaces, watches, and earrings. Each piece is designed to showcase the delicate beading and intricate details of the Perlée technique, with many of them incorporating diamonds or ornamental gemstones. The brand also periodically introduces new models to the collection, keeping the line fresh and exciting for collectors. Here’s a closer look at each type of jewelry in the collection:

Rings: the collection includes a range of ring designs, from delicate bands to more elaborate styles. One of the most popular designs is the Perlée Clovers ring, which features clover-shaped motifs set with diamonds and is available in yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold. Available in two sizes: small, ranging from 46mm to 51mm, and medium, from 52mm to 62mm. Another popular design is the Perlée Signature ring, which features a row of beads around the band. The ring comes in yellow, white, and rose gold variations, and is available in widths ranging from 45mm to 69mm. The Perlée Diamonds ring is available in widths of one, three, or five rows of stacked beads, and can be found in the three main gold color variations. Sizes range from 42mm to 62mm.

Bracelets: some of the most sought-after Perlée pieces include the collection’s bracelets, which range from delicate single-row styles to sculptural bangles. The Perlée Couleurs bracelet, one of the most popular styles, features impactful colorful gemstones set into the beaded cuff-like design and is available in sizes S, M, and L, for a wrist size that can go from 5.9 inches to 6.7 inches. It stands as one of the widest styles in the collection, in contrast to the slim nature of bracelets like the Pearls of Gold or Perlée Diamonds bracelets. These last two are available in sizes XS, XS/M, M, M/L, and L, and feature the stunning beading technique that characterizes the collection. Sizes for the Perlée Signature and Perlée Clovers bracelets also follow this structure. The Signature features engraved arabesques of the Van Cleef & Arpels signature, as well as a blade clasp closure and a polished mirror finish, while the beauty of Clovers style is enhanced by beautiful clover motifs, the brand’s symbol of luck, and a golden bead at their center. It also features a blade clasp closure. All bracelet models are available in white, yellow, and rose gold, with diamond-set iterations.

Necklaces: the Perlée collection features two primary necklace styles, delicate pendants, and more elaborate long necklaces. The Perlée Couleurs transformable long necklace is decorated with 23 ornamental stones like coral, onyx, or turquoise, and has a chain length of about 35.4 inches (90cm). On the other hand, pendants in the line include the Perlée Couleurs, which features one large ornamental stone (of the collector’s choice) that dangles from a 16.5 inches (42cm) white, rose, or yellow gold chain. Of the same chain length and style, the Perlée Diamonds and the Perlée Clovers pendant feature a rounded, diamond-studded creation, and a clover motif, golden-beaded, barrel-shaped ornament, respectively.

Earrings: two primary earring categories are present in the collection, dome-like studs, and hoops. The first category includes Perlée Diamonds and Perlée Couleurs earrings. The Diamonds style features a dome-like circle studded with 38 diamond stones. Perlée Couleurs earrings, on the other hand, also feature a dome-like circle shape but are instead adorned with ornamental stones like green malachite, red carnelian, or turquoise. Hoops in the collection include the Perlée Clovers and the Perlée Pearls of Gold styles. The former are adorned with the house’s beloved clover motif, made special by 40 small embedded diamond stones; these hoops also come with a detachable stem and clip-back clasp. The Pearls of Gold style is available in two sizes, small and large, both of which consist of a single row of shiny beads. All earrings come in yellow, white, and rose gold iterations.

Watches: timepieces in the Perlée collection fall into two categories, wristwatches and “secret” watches. The traditional Perlée watch can have either a 23mm or 30mm case, and features a yellow, white, or rose gold bezel, a guilloché dial, and Swiss quartz movement. All models are sold with two interchangeable straps and a pin buckle, with straps in materials like alligator skin, gold, grosgrain, and more, and all sorts of stones to adorn your timepiece. Perlée Secret Pendant watches feature a 25mm case surrounded by diamonds, a gold bezel, a white mother-of-pearl dial, a gold chain, and Swiss quartz movement. Secret Pendant watches have a distinctive cover (hence the “secret” label, as it hides the watch’s face) that features one of the label’s ornamental stones, with options like chalcedony, ruby, sodalite, and quartz, among others.

How to Style Your Perlèe Pieces

Joyfully feminine, Perlée models can be styled in an array of ways. Since they have such a delicate design, they are perfect for layering or stacking, either with other pieces belonging to their collection or other Van Cleef & Arpels styles, with multiple bracelets or rings that can be layered together to create a unique look. The beading adds texture and dimension to any attire and pairs well with other jewelry. For a more subtle look, they can also be worn on their own. Perlée pieces are versatile and can be dressed up or down according to the occasion.

History Behind the Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Collection

One of the most sought-after Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry collections, Perlée was first introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in 2008, but its history and inspiration go back much further.

The Perlée technique, which involves adding tiny beads to metal surfaces, had been used in French haute couture for centuries when the brand drew inspiration from it and created a collection of jewelry that would showcase the beauty of these delicate beads. The labor-intensive, high-skilled technique involves using a small drill to make evenly spaced holes which are then filled with tiny beads or pearls. These are then carefully secured using a special bead setting or graver tool. The aforementioned beads or pearls are often made of precious metals, like gold or platinum, or precious stones like diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds; they usually measure just a few millimeters. The result is an intricate design that adds a stunning visual effect to the surface of a piece of jewelry.

The collection was named Perlée, French for “beaded”. At the time of its release, it featured a range of rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. These pieces featured delicate beading in gold, rose gold, and white gold, and were often embellished with diamonds or stunning colorful gemstones. It didn’t take long for the Perlée to become a favorite among jewelry collectors. This was, with its timeless elegance and sophistication, to be expected: the world of jewelry recognized and admired the precision and skill needed to implement the beading technique, which made every Perlée piece a work of art in its own right.

In 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Perlée Couleurs collection, which added a pop of color to the classic Perlée design. The Couleurs collection featured a range of stunning gemstones including turquoise, carnelian, and onyx, and was designed to be mixed and matched or stacked with the original, classic Perlée pieces.

Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has continued to expand the Perlée collection, introducing new models and variations on the classic design, but always remaining true to their origins. The brand has also offered customization options for some of the pieces, allowing customers to choose their preferred metal and gemstones, with all sorts of combinations available. Today, the Perlée collection remains one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature jewelry collections.