DESIGNER 101

Watches 101:

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

By The Rebag Team, Apr. 11, 2023

Watches 101: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust is an iconic timepiece that has been favored by many personalities including Winston Churchill, Martin Luther King, and President Lyndon B. Johnson. In the nearly eight decades since its release, the Datejust has undergone countless updates — yet has never lost its appeal. Read on to discover everything you need to know about Rolex’s Datejust including its history, the variety of models available, materials used, styling tips, and more.

The Datejust Look

The Rolex Datejust is revered for its enduring aesthetic and refined design. Its round case and understated dial exude sophistication, captivating watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. The Datejust boasts practicality with its signature date display window positioned at 3 o’clock, enhanced by a Cyclops lens for easy readability. This versatile timepiece effortlessly transitions from casual to formal occasions, embodying classic elegance while ensuring comfort for daily wear.

The Datejust’s Exquisite Materials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust timepieces are crafted in a range of premium materials, chosen by the Swiss watchmaker to ensure durability and precision. Both cases and bezels, which are the rings surrounding the watch face, are manufactured in stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, or Rolex’s exclusive Everose gold alloy. Bezels are sometimes adorned with diamond or precious stones, and can be smooth, fluted, or domed. The Datejust offers unparalleled material combinations with dials available in stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, or mother-of-pearl, embellished with diamonds, gemstones, or ornamental motifs, and finished with sunray textures. Select Datejust models feature other materials, such as meteorite dials, adding unique textures and patterns to the watch. Dials may also have different types of hour markers, such as Roman or Arabic numerals or index markers. Some models also have diamonds or gemstones set into the lugs, crown guards, and hour markers. The Oyster Perpetual Datejust is powered by a self-winding movement, meaning that it is charged by the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist, made in-house by the label.

Three Iconic Bracelet Styles

(Credit: Rolex)

The Oyster bracelet: originating in the late 1930s, the three-piece metal link bracelet was crafted for exceptional durability, rendering it a favored selection within the collection. The links of this iconic bracelet are large and flat, giving it a robust look. The Oyster bracelet, known for its versatility, is currently available on all Datejust models and remains the most adaptable bracelet of the three.

(Credit: Rolex)

The Jubilee bracelet: Rolex introduced the Jubilee bracelet in 1945 to celebrate its 40th anniversary. Composed of five linked semi-circular metal pieces, the Jubilee was created for the Datejust model with a focus on comfort and smoothness. The Jubilee bracelet is secured with either an invisible Crownclasp, resembling the brand’s signature crown logo when closed, or an Oysterclasp with a folding mechanism and safety catch, contributing to the model’s classic and elegant appearance.

(Credit: Bob’s Watches)

The President bracelet: initially launched in 1956, the President bracelet is currently reserved solely for Day-Date watches and certain Lady Datejust models created using precious metals. This bracelet is a combination of the Jubilee and Oyster bracelets, with semi-circular links that give it a unique appearance. The bracelet comprises three metal-linked pieces, concealed by a hidden Crownclasp, and incorporates ceramic inserts that have been developed and patented by Rolex. The inserts increase the bracelet’s malleability and longevity, contributing to its exceptional performance.

Sizing Basics

Rolex Lady-Datejust: the smallest version of the Datejust watch, it currently features a case of 28mm and is generally preferred by women. Originally, the case measured 26mm.

Rolex Datejust 31: second smallest, this model has a case size of 31mm. It is also typically worn by women.

Rolex Datejust 36: the classic and most popular size of the Datejust line, the 36mm is available in various materials, including (but not limited to) stainless steel, gold, and two-tone combinations.

Rolex Datejust 41: the largest of all Datejust models, the 41mm was introduced in 2009 and is available in a range of materials, including stainless steel, gold, and two-tone.

How to Style Your Rolex Datejust

Datejust models make for a sophisticated addition to any wardrobe. Men can achieve a classic look by pairing it with a tailored suit, while women can complement a little black dress or formal gown. To dress it down, jeans and a T-shirt or button-down will suffice. When selecting a Datejust model, women may want to consider which jewelry pieces, if any, they’d like to pair with their timepiece, and whether they like to match or mix metals.

Limited Editions

Rolex has come out with several editions, some limited and rare, of the best-selling Datejust over the years, including:

Rolex Turn-O-Graph 36: also known as the Thunderbird, this model, originally designed as a tool watch for pilots, features a rotating bezel and a size 36mm case. It was discontinued in the 1970s and later reintroduced in the early 2000s as part of the Datejust collection.

Rolex Lady-Datejust: introduced in the 1950s as a smaller and more feminine version of the men’s Datejust, it is available in a range of case sizes, including 26mm, 28mm, and 31mm. Cases are typically made from 18k gold, Rolesor (a combination of gold and steel), or steel, and the dial is available in a variety of colors and finishes such as champagne, silver, mother-of-pearl, or sunburst.

Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster: available in a range of case sizes, including 29mm, 34mm, and 39mm, this model’s case is typically made from 18k gold or platinum, and it is often adorned with diamonds or other precious stones. Dials for this iteration come in a variety of colors and finishes such as mother-of-pearl or sunburst.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Wimbledon: the limited edition timepiece, released in 2020, features a 36mm stainless steel and 18k gold case, a green dial, and a fluted yellow gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Wimbledon: this iteration, released in 2011, features a 41mm stainless steel case, a green dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Coral Dial: released in 2020, this model features a 36mm stainless steel case, a coral dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Rhodium Dial: this iteration of the Datejust was released in 2019 and features a 41mm stainless steel case, a rhodium dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Green Dial: a limited edition watch released in 2017, this model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a green dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Dark Rhodium Dial: this version, released in 2016, features a 41mm stainless steel case, a dark rhodium dial, a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Sundust Diamond Dial: this 2016 iteration features a 41mm Everose gold and stainless steel case, a sundust dial with diamond hour markers, and a fluted Everose gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Blue Dial: the 2013 limited edition model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a deep blue dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Silver Dial: released in 2009, this model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a silver dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Grey Dial: released in 2017, this version of the Datejust features a 41mm stainless steel case, a gray dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 White Mother of Pearl Dial: this iteration was released in 2020 and features a 36mm stainless steel and 18k white gold case, a white mother of pearl dial with diamond hour markers, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster: even more luxurious than the Datejust, this model features a diamond-encrusted bezel and a range of precious metal options. It is available in sizes ranging from 29mm to 39mm.

Rolex Datejust 1601: a vintage model of the Datejust featuring a classic design and a case size of 36mm.

History Behind the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust is an iconic watch with a rich and captivating history. Introduced in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary, it was the first self-winding watch to display the date at 3 o’clock, which automatically updated at midnight. While this feature is now commonplace, it was a groundbreaking innovation at the time, providing easy and convenient access to timekeeping. In contrast to most watches of the era, which required daily manual winding to maintain accuracy, the self-winding Datejust relied on the wearer’s wrist motion for power, making it significantly more practical and user-friendly.

“[The Datejust] is the pinnacle of watchmaking science. It encapsulates every discovery made to date.” 

Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex founder, 1945

Since its inception, the Datejust has undergone numerous revisions and enhancements, helping cement Rolex’s position as a leader in the watchmaking industry. During the 1950s, the brand introduced the Cyclops magnifying lens over the date window to improve date readability, a feature that has since become a distinctive hallmark of Rolex watches. In 1957, Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, designed exclusively for women.

In the 1970s, Rolex upgraded the Datejust with sapphire crystal, more durable and scratch-resistant than the acrylic crystal used in earlier models, to cover the dial. Since then, the watch has been produced with sapphire crystal and now boasts a double anti-reflective coating to enhance its efficacy. Over the years, the Rolex Datejust has undergone numerous updates to its case size, materials, and movement, as well as the release of limited editions. Despite these changes, the watch’s fundamental design and concept have remained largely unchanged. This is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to innovation and quality, and it’s why the Datejust remains a popular choice among collectors and watch enthusiasts worldwide.

As Seen On Celebrities

Shop the Style

Further Reading: If you’re looking to delve deeper into the world of watchmaking, pay a visit to our terminology guide here to better understand every component of your favorite timepieces.

The Datejust Look

The Rolex Datejust is revered for its enduring aesthetic and refined design. Its round case and understated dial exude sophistication, captivating watch collectors and enthusiasts alike. The Datejust boasts practicality with its signature date display window positioned at 3 o’clock, enhanced by a Cyclops lens for easy readability. This versatile timepiece effortlessly transitions from casual to formal occasions, embodying classic elegance while ensuring comfort for daily wear.

The Datejust’s Exquisite Materials

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust timepieces are crafted in a range of premium materials, chosen by the Swiss watchmaker to ensure durability and precision. Both cases and bezels, which are the rings surrounding the watch face, are manufactured in stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, or Rolex’s exclusive Everose gold alloy. Bezels are sometimes adorned with diamond or precious stones, and can be smooth, fluted, or domed. The Datejust offers unparalleled material combinations with dials available in stainless steel, yellow gold, white gold, or mother-of-pearl, embellished with diamonds, gemstones, or ornamental motifs, and finished with sunray textures. Select Datejust models feature other materials, such as meteorite dials, adding unique textures and patterns to the watch. Dials may also have different types of hour markers, such as Roman or Arabic numerals or index markers. Some models also have diamonds or gemstones set into the lugs, crown guards, and hour markers. The Oyster Perpetual Datejust is powered by a self-winding movement, meaning that it is charged by the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist, made in-house by the label.

Three Iconic Bracelet Styles

(Credit: Rolex)

The Oyster bracelet: originating in the late 1930s, the three-piece metal link bracelet was crafted for exceptional durability, rendering it a favored selection within the collection. The links of this iconic bracelet are large and flat, giving it a robust look. The Oyster bracelet, known for its versatility, is currently available on all Datejust models and remains the most adaptable bracelet of the three.

(Credit: Rolex)

The Jubilee bracelet: Rolex introduced the Jubilee bracelet in 1945 to celebrate its 40th anniversary. Composed of five linked semi-circular metal pieces, the Jubilee was created for the Datejust model with a focus on comfort and smoothness. The Jubilee bracelet is secured with either an invisible Crownclasp, resembling the brand’s signature crown logo when closed, or an Oysterclasp with a folding mechanism and safety catch, contributing to the model’s classic and elegant appearance.

(Credit: Bob’s Watches)

The President bracelet: initially launched in 1956, the President bracelet is currently reserved solely for Day-Date watches and certain Lady Datejust models created using precious metals. This bracelet is a combination of the Jubilee and Oyster bracelets, with semi-circular links that give it a unique appearance. The bracelet comprises three metal-linked pieces, concealed by a hidden Crownclasp, and incorporates ceramic inserts that have been developed and patented by Rolex. The inserts increase the bracelet’s malleability and longevity, contributing to its exceptional performance.

Sizing Basics

Rolex Lady-Datejust: the smallest version of the Datejust watch, it currently features a case of 28mm and is generally preferred by women. Originally, the case measured 26mm.

Rolex Datejust 31: second smallest, this model has a case size of 31mm. It is also typically worn by women.

Rolex Datejust 36: the classic and most popular size of the Datejust line, the 36mm is available in various materials, including (but not limited to) stainless steel, gold, and two-tone combinations.

Rolex Datejust 41: the largest of all Datejust models, the 41mm was introduced in 2009 and is available in a range of materials, including stainless steel, gold, and two-tone.

How to Style Your Rolex Datejust

Datejust models make for a sophisticated addition to any wardrobe. Men can achieve a classic look by pairing it with a tailored suit, while women can complement a little black dress or formal gown. To dress it down, jeans and a T-shirt or button-down will suffice. When selecting a Datejust model, women may want to consider which jewelry pieces, if any, they’d like to pair with their timepiece, and whether they like to match or mix metals.

Limited Editions

Rolex has come out with several editions, some limited and rare, of the best-selling Datejust over the years, including:

Rolex Turn-O-Graph 36: also known as the Thunderbird, this model, originally designed as a tool watch for pilots, features a rotating bezel and a size 36mm case. It was discontinued in the 1970s and later reintroduced in the early 2000s as part of the Datejust collection. 

Rolex Lady-Datejust: introduced in the 1950s as a smaller and more feminine version of the men’s Datejust, it is available in a range of case sizes, including 26mm, 28mm, and 31mm. Cases are typically made from 18k gold, Rolesor (a combination of gold and steel), or steel, and the dial is available in a variety of colors and finishes such as champagne, silver, mother-of-pearl, or sunburst.

Rolex Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster: available in a range of case sizes, including 29mm, 34mm, and 39mm, this model’s case is typically made from 18k gold or platinum, and it is often adorned with diamonds or other precious stones. Dials for this iteration come in a variety of colors and finishes such as mother-of-pearl or sunburst.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Wimbledon: the limited edition timepiece, released in 2020, features a 36mm stainless steel and 18k gold case, a green dial, and a fluted yellow gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Wimbledon: this iteration, released in 2011, features a 41mm stainless steel case, a green dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 Coral Dial: released in 2020, this model features a 36mm stainless steel case, a coral dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Rhodium Dial: this iteration of the Datejust was released in 2019 and features a 41mm stainless steel case, a rhodium dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Green Dial: a limited edition watch released in 2017, this model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a green dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Dark Rhodium Dial: this version, released in 2016, features a 41mm stainless steel case, a dark rhodium dial, a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Sundust Diamond Dial: this 2016 iteration features a 41mm Everose gold and stainless steel case, a sundust dial with diamond hour markers, and a fluted Everose gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Blue Dial: the 2013 limited edition model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a deep blue dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust II Silver Dial: released in 2009, this model features a 41mm stainless steel case, a silver dial, and a fluted white gold bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Grey Dial: released in 2017, this version of the Datejust features a 41mm stainless steel case, a gray dial, and a stainless steel bezel.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 White Mother of Pearl Dial: this iteration was released in 2020 and features a 36mm stainless steel and 18k white gold case, a white mother of pearl dial with diamond hour markers, and a fluted white gold bezel. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster: even more luxurious than the Datejust, this model features a diamond-encrusted bezel and a range of precious metal options. It is available in sizes ranging from 29mm to 39mm.

olex Datejust 1601: a vintage model of the Datejust featuring a classic design and a case size of 36mm.

History Behind the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust is an iconic watch with a rich and captivating history. Introduced in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary, it was the first self-winding watch to display the date at 3 o’clock, which automatically updated at midnight. While this feature is now commonplace, it was a groundbreaking innovation at the time, providing easy and convenient access to timekeeping. In contrast to most watches of the era, which required daily manual winding to maintain accuracy, the self-winding Datejust relied on the wearer’s wrist motion for power, making it significantly more practical and user-friendly.

“[The Datejust] is the pinnacle of watchmaking science.

It encapsulates every discovery made to date.” 

Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex founder, 1945

Since its inception, the Datejust has undergone numerous revisions and enhancements, helping cement Rolex’s position as a leader in the watchmaking industry. During the 1950s, the brand introduced the Cyclops magnifying lens over the date window to improve date readability, a feature that has since become a distinctive hallmark of Rolex watches. In 1957, Rolex launched the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, designed exclusively for women. 

In the 1970s, Rolex upgraded the Datejust with sapphire crystal, more durable and scratch-resistant than the acrylic crystal used in earlier models, to cover the dial. Since then, the watch has been produced with sapphire crystal and now boasts a double anti-reflective coating to enhance its efficacy. Over the years, the Rolex Datejust has undergone numerous updates to its case size, materials, and movement, as well as the release of limited editions. Despite these changes, the watch’s fundamental design and concept have remained largely unchanged. This is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to innovation and quality, and it’s why the Datejust remains a popular choice among collectors and watch enthusiasts worldwide.

As Seen On Celebrities

Shop the Style

Further Reading: If you’re looking to delve deeper into the world of watchmaking, pay a visit to our terminology guide here to better understand every component of your favorite timepieces.

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