DESIGNER 101

Watches 101:

The Santos de Cartier

By The Rebag Team, Jun. 14, 2023

Watches 101: The Santos de Cartier

The Santos de Cartier has captivated the hearts of watch enthusiasts for nearly a century. This iconic watch was first introduced in 1906 and has since become one of the most popular and recognizable timepieces in the world. The Santos’ elegant design, innovative features, and exceptional craftsmanship have made it a favorite among celebrities such as Tom Cruise and Tom Holland. Explore the history and characteristics of the Cartier Santos watch, including the various models available, materials used, and styling tips. Whether you are a watch aficionado or simply looking to invest in a high-quality timepiece, the Santos de Cartier is a safe bet.

The Santos de Cartier Look

Robust by nature, the Santos’ renowned square case and the screws that secured the glass were intended to recall the four legs of the new Eiffel Tower, whose construction was finalized in 1889. Similarly, the blackened Roman numerals are a nod to the radial layout of Paris’ streets and wide boulevards. One of the defining elements of the Santos de Cartier watch is its signature square bezel with visible screws, adding a touch of modernity to the overall design. The dial is clean and minimalist and showcases Roman numeral hour markers, coupled with sword-shaped hands that enhance legibility and lend a classic touch to the timepiece. Bracelets in the line are either stainless steel, leather, or gold variations.

Santos de Cartier Materials

As with everything Cartier, the Santos de Cartier watch collection is known for its sophisticated design and the high-quality materials used. The cases are made from a variety of materials including steel and gold variations, which are carefully selected for their durability and elegance and are often combined to create striking two-tone designs. Some Santos models even feature diamond-set bezels or dials, adding an extra touch of luxury.

The movements, meaning the watches’ mechanisms, are typically made of sturdy and precise materials such as stainless steel and brass, while the straps and bracelets may be made of leather, steel, gold, or other fine materials.

Santos de Cartier Models

There are several models available in the Santos de Cartier collection, each with its own unique features and designs. Every iteration is crafted with attention to detail and combines traditional watchmaking techniques with modern technology to offer practical wear and reliable timekeeping. While most Santos styles are targeted towards men, specific models have been designed as genderless or specifically with women in mind. All Santos models are water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Santos de Cartier Skeleton: this iteration features a skeletonized dial, allowing a captivating view of the intricate inner workings of the watch.

Santos de Cartier Chronograph: a version that combines the iconic Santos design with a chronograph complication, allowing for additional stopwatch functionality.

Santos de Cartier Galbée: showcases a more curved and ergonomic case design with a streamlined and feminine aesthetic.

Santos de Cartier Dumont Limited Edition: pays tribute to the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. The caseback is engraved with an illustration of Santos-Dumont’s aircraft.

Santos de Cartier Demoiselle: a ladies’ version of the Santos watch with a rectangular case.

Santos de Cartier Ronde Solo: a round-cased variation of the Santos design, with a classic and versatile aesthetic suitable for both men and women.

Santos de Cartier Ronde Louis Cartier Watch: features a stainless steel or gold case, and a leather strap. The dial features Roman numeral hour markers and blue sword-shaped hands. It pays tribute to Louis Cartier, and embodies his vision of elegance and sophistication, with a focus on simplicity.

How to Style Your Santos de Cartier Watch

Since the Santos is water-resistant up to 100 meters, it can be worn in an array of different settings with ease. Wear it comfortably on your day-to-day routine, to the beach, poolside, to the gym, or to formal gatherings, either solo or stacked with your favorite bracelets for an extra impactful look. There is no limit on how to style your Santos.

History Behind the Santos de Cartier

In 1904, pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont voiced his dissatisfaction with the use of pocket watches while soaring through the skies, a concern he conveyed to the esteemed jeweler Louis Cartier. Cartier responded with a wristwatch adorned with a square bezel, thus birthing the world’s first mass-produced men’s wristwatch. It is worth noting that Santos-Dumont himself wore a Cartier timepiece during his groundbreaking airplane flight in 1906.

The iconic Santos timepiece showcased a dial design that embraced the essence of the Art Deco era, which reigned supreme throughout the 1920s and 1930s. Later on, in the late 1970s, Cartier ushered forth the Santos de Cartier, an accessible sports watch intended to captivate a younger demographic through the integration of a bracelet and a stainless steel case. This pioneering “bimetal” composition, fusing gold and steel, attained remarkable popularity during the vibrant 1980s. Subsequently, an all-steel rendition was also introduced. 1987 saw the Santos emerge anew as the Santos Galbée, boasting an exquisitely curved and ergonomically designed case. Cartier continued to produce the timeless Santos-Dumont model in lustrous yellow gold, catering to the demand for watches for both men and women. As time marched forward, the Collection Privée Cartier Paris came into existence, heralding the arrival of captivating new renditions within the Santos-Dumont lineage.

2004 witnessed the dawn of the Santos 100 collection, a resounding testament to the lineage’s remarkable modernization and renewal. Rejuvenating the Santos collection in splendid fashion, Cartier unveiled an assortment of thirteen timepieces, showcased in two sizes, during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2018 event in Geneva. Notably, the fusion of steel and rose gold graced a mesmerizing skeleton version, providing a glimpse into Cartier’s mastery of skeletonized movements. Furthermore, pioneering innovations like the patent-pending SmartLink system were introduced, allowing wearers to adjust the bracelet with ease.

Cartier expanded the Santos line further during the SIHH 2019 gathering, introducing the Santos Chronograph and a quartz-powered Santos-Dumont variant. This diverse range catered to the preferences of both connoisseurs and those just embarking on their horological journey. Cartier’s unwavering dedication to innovation and refinement ensures the constant evolution of the Santos watch, resonating with discerning enthusiasts around the globe.